We’d had a rocky start to the day, so many tears and so many arguments I don’t know what there was more off. The weather had gone to sh*t and what should have been a beautiful beach setting became the backdrop to a disastorous start in Spain. On the drive to Biarritz the extractor fan flew off unbeknown to us. The live wires short-circuited our whole electrical system draining our leisure batteries to flat and basically f*cking it all up. After tears and tantrums this place left a sour taste in our mouths so without reason to stay we went back on the road to recharge the kaput batteries and make our way to San Sebastian. Trying to find parking felt HARD everything felt HARD we’d had enough of the day and wanted life to be easy. We looked up a parking site close by and went there. As San Sebastian is a goto for tourists, every available spit of land and street had a parking meter. We were lucky to get a spot as it was a squeeze being the last available in the park but still it was something. Our mood was improved by lovely fellow campervanners helping with buying a ticket and suggestions on where to go and what to do. I think it is a big part of the lifestyle when you are in the campervan club, which we had unwillingly joined, telling tales of trips gone by and hotspots where to park and lovely off the beaten track suggestions we’d never think of going to. We felt safer here anyway nothing to stress over and compared to normal parking the overnights rates were cheap!
It was all enough to lift out spirits and so we dolled ourselves up and cycled into town. Locking our bikes up on the beachfront we headed towards the old town. Townhouses edged each street towering high above blocking out the last of the sun and thankfully keeping it cool. The cobbled streets as they always seem to be in places we visit took it towards the square and into a local and small cheap eat. The local cuisine is a thing called Pintxos which in layman’s terms is a type of tapas. Each piece is a bitesize morsel of deliciousness culinary excitement for the senses. This place was tiny but every single spare spot on the bar was covered with food. I love a good buffet so this was right up my street although I had no idea how it worked. With much sign language we got the jist of it. Ask for a plate, pick everything you want and hand it back to the bar men, they in turn will heat up any items necessary and make a note of what you have for when you ask for the bill. We were a bit naughty though and grazed a few times but after the awful start to the day we thought we deserved it! Following the savoury satisifaction of the local hotspot we nabbed an ice-cream from the place we’d eyeballed earlier. Two huge cones of snickers and kinder hit the spot and after sipping some of the local sangria too we walked along the beachfront and watched the sun go down. It was the best way we could have ended the day and we were very much looking forward to another day in San Sebastian.
Our second day had a bright and early start. Keen to get out and explore more following our fab day yesterday. The usual routine occurred of checking the battery, how can we fix this, is there anything we can improve on before giving up and pretending the issue doesn’t exist. We chose an early rise to beat the heat and hike up the hills which overlook the bay in San Sebastian. Looking at it from across the water it seemed so so far but in actual fact it took around half an hour. The trails were all pavemented so it was easy. Before long we had reached a place where the views were spectacular, overlooking the whole bay and city. After walking through the ruins, castles and monument we ambled down the paths and towards the beach. It was rammed, I likened it to a local Benidorm, with crowds of people sardined together on mats and towels. We walked along the edge dipping our toes in the sea and letting the waves lap around our ankles. After a relax by the promenade we dusted off the dreaded sandy toes and thoroughly ravenous from a jam packed morning we indulged in yet more pintxos. As previously described it is basically my idea of heaven so we stuffed ourselves silly. We walked through the old town and part of the newer area to get an idea of the differing architectures on offer. For us it was all in the old town and I think that is what most people go to visit. As the afternoon drifted by we cycled back and changed ready for another amazing evening. As per I had done one foodie research and after the obligatory sangria which by the way is everywhere I read up about a local drink produced in northern Spain. Called txkoli it is a fresh white wine which is to be poured from a height to give more bubbles and release the flavours. We sampled a tipple from apparently the best place in town and it was super sweet almost apple flavour. It was a lovely touch where we also sampled yet more of the tapas offerings. We ventured over the the sculptures by the sea “comb of the wind” where as the sun set vibrant hues of orange and violet bounced off the curved casting dramatic shadows on the rocks and turbulent seas below. What an amazing place San Sebastian was I would go back in a heartbeat.